Friday, 18 October 2019

INDIA KASHMIR - GULMARG


GULMARG

Gulmarg was originally called “ Gaurimarg “ ( Gauri , the Fair One, is another name for Parvati ) . It was renamed Gulmarg , meaning meadow of flowers , by Sultan Yusuf Shah in the 16th century. As the name suggests, Gulmarg is characterized by Rolling Meadows emblazoned with wild flowers through spring and summer; while thick, powder fine snow covers it in winters. Located 56kms southwest of Srinagar, Gulmarg was a favourite haunt of the Mughal emperor , Jahangir , who came here to collect plants for his gardens.

In the 19th century, British civil servants and soldiers began frequenting it to escape the summer heat of the plains of north India,to hunt and to play golf on its open meadows. By the early 20th century Gulmarg had 3 golf courses, including one exclusively for women!

In summers, the almost 2 hours’ drive from Srinagar to Gulmarg takes one through field of maize and rice, gently rising towards the lower slopes of the Pir Panjal range. From Tangmarg the 12km uphill drive to Gulmarg is through forests of pine and firs. In winter, the entire area up from Tangmarg is covered with snow and looks spectacular.

Located at an altitude of 2730m the cup shaped valley of Gulmarg is 2 sq kms in area enclosed by forested tracts of tall green pines close at hand and the high snow capped peaks beyond. The view of the vast , open meadows is unobstructed , except for a few hotels and army quarters , as construction is otherwise barred in the quaint hill station. Instead, the greens are dotted with small lakes and enclosed parks. Tranquil and serene, the dream like quietude in the valley is broken only by the occasional tinkle of cowbells or neighing of horses.

Interestingly, Gulmarg does not have any permanent residents.Those staying in Gulmarg are either tourists or those catering to the tourism industry here.

One must plan a relaxed stay in Gulmarg to witness all its charm. Summers allow for several outdoor activities trekking on foot or on horses, mountain biking, trout fishing, golfing and water skiing. Gulmarg is an excellent base for treks in the northern Pir Panjal Ranges. Many treks are designed to suit all abilities and meander through the meadows and along hill trails, providing stunning views of the valley.

 One could trek to Khilanmarg (6kms) or further up to the peak of Apharwat. On a clear day, the Nanga Parbat peak can be seen from several viewpoints. One could also trek south to the Ferozepur Nala and further to the hamlets of Danwas, Tejjian and to Samaidan. There are no fixed rates for hiring horses; so remember to bargain well.

Gulmarg boasts of the world’s highest golf course, situated at an altitude of 2650m. Built in 1911 by British, this is the only one of the 3 golf courses that remains today. The first golf championship in India was played in Gulmarg in 1922. The sprawling 18 hole golf course is maintained by the State Tourism Department and welcomes temporary members on daily payment basis.

A limited amount of golfing equipment is available for hire. The golf clubhouse,standing amidst the greens, has a quaintly sloping roof reminiscent of a Swiss chalet. St Mary’s Anglican Church, also in the middle of the golf course, stands to this day as a reminder of Gulmarg’s British lineage.

A big tourist attraction is the newly inaugurated “Gondola “cable car on the slopes of the majestic of the majestic Mt Apharwat (4200m) .Built in collaboration with the acclaimed French cable car company, Pomoglaski , it is the world’s highest and Asia’s longest ropeway.Open all year round,the 2 stage ropeway , covers a total distance of 5kms , and ferries about 600 people an hour.

 The first phase of the Gondola, inaugurated in 1998, takes about 9 minutes to ascend the 400m to Kongdori station, while the second phase, inaugurated in 2005, ascends to a dizzying 4267m!

Disembarking at the highest point, the grandeur of the view from the cable car suddenly gives way to a carnivalesque setting with nearly everyone being noisily excited at the sight of snow. There are several activities from snow scooters to tobogganing (riding on hand pulled sledges) and ski rides. 

While snowfall occurs till April, snow stays on the highest point till about July end. The view of the Himalayas is breathtaking. A sign board can be seen indicating the end of Indian civilian area; only few kilometers beyond is Pakistani territory.

While in summers the verdant beauty of Gulmarg with its flowery meadows and pastoral scenes charms the visitor, the thick snow cover from November to March makes Gulmarg a most sought after winter destination. Blanketed in white the valley looks pristine. In the chilling cold weather , hotels here extend warm hospitality, with hot cups of kahwa and cracking wood fire burning in stone fireplaces.

There is enough and more for a visitor to do in winters: sit back and enjoy the stunning views, play in the soft snow or partake of the various winter sport activities offered. Gulmarg has been called the “heartland of winter sports in India” by CNN. In January 1998, the first National Winter Games of India were held here. Thereafter, Gulmarg has hosted the event twice, in 2004 and 2008.

A generous snowfall in winters covers the mountain with fine, deep powder snow turning Gulmarg into  India’s finest ski resort. Mt Apharwat boasts of one of the longest and highest ski slopes in Asia. “ A big , wide, whale bakced mountain …..with a dozen or so ridges coming off the front face at right angles, like the teeth of a comb”, the peak has varied ski runs to suit all levels of experience , from beginners to professionals. One can choose to ski down any of the ridges or drop into one of the bowls between them. There are 3 ski lifts to take skiers up the mountain from where, in the peak season, they can glide all the way down to Tangmarg! The Gondola cable car takes one to a downhill ski run of 5.2 kms , from a height of 4267.2 m.

A European travel writer points out “that with such pristine conditions it attracts all types –the passionate, professionals, unskilled and the sacred. “ Skiing on the slopes of Gulmarg is a big attraction because compared to other major ski resorts, especially the Alpine resorts, the crowds here are far fewer and the rates ridiculously low. Ski race evens are also held in Gulmarg which see participation from across the world.

The Skiing season extends from 15 December to 15 April. Basic equipment is available on hire, while trained instructors are available for various levels of training. The Indian Institute of Skiing and Mountaineering in Gulmarg conducts professional courses in skiing, apart from organizing various other kinds of adventure activities.

Heli-skiing has recently been launched in Gulmarg by the J& K Government. It is the ultimate, free riding experience where helicopters are used instead of ski lifts. The helicopter rides up the mountain, apart from being an experience in itself, give skiers access to virgin turfs that are otherwise out of bounds.

Given its stunning beauty, it is no surprise that the vales of Gulmarg have been a favourite with Bollywood directors. The famous song from the 1973 Rishi Kapoor Dimple Kapadia starrer Boddy , “ Hum tum Ek Kamre Main Band Hon”, was shot in Gulmarg , in Highlands Park Hotel. Another popular song associated with Gulmarg is “Jai Jai Shiv Shankar” from Aap Ki KAsam starring Rajesh Khanna and Mumtaz. Locals are sure to point out the small Shiva Temple on a hillock, in the middle of the valley, where this song was shot. Originally the temple of the Dogra kings of Jammu and Kashmir, it is known as the Maharani Temple or Mohineshwar Shivalaya. Interestingly, this conical, single celled shrine can be seen from all parts of Gulmarg!

The annual, 3 day Gulmarg Winter Festival, held in March, brings together music, film. Photography and adventure on one common platform. Showcasing upcoming artists it holds events against the breathtaking setting of snow peaks and is a great crowd puller.


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