GULMARG
Gulmarg was originally called “ Gaurimarg “
( Gauri , the Fair One, is another name for Parvati ) . It was renamed Gulmarg
, meaning meadow of flowers , by Sultan Yusuf Shah in the 16th
century. As the name suggests, Gulmarg is characterized by Rolling Meadows
emblazoned with wild flowers through spring and summer; while thick, powder
fine snow covers it in winters. Located 56kms southwest of Srinagar, Gulmarg
was a favourite haunt of the Mughal emperor , Jahangir , who came here to
collect plants for his gardens.
In the 19th century, British
civil servants and soldiers began frequenting it to escape the summer heat of
the plains of north India,to hunt and to play golf on its open meadows. By the
early 20th century Gulmarg had 3 golf courses, including one
exclusively for women!
In summers, the almost 2 hours’ drive from
Srinagar to Gulmarg takes one through field of maize and rice, gently rising
towards the lower slopes of the Pir Panjal range. From Tangmarg the 12km uphill
drive to Gulmarg is through forests of pine and firs. In winter, the entire
area up from Tangmarg is covered with snow and looks spectacular.
Located at an altitude of 2730m the cup
shaped valley of Gulmarg is 2 sq kms in area enclosed by forested tracts of
tall green pines close at hand and the high snow capped peaks beyond. The view
of the vast , open meadows is unobstructed , except for a few hotels and army
quarters , as construction is otherwise barred in the quaint hill station.
Instead, the greens are dotted with small lakes and enclosed parks. Tranquil
and serene, the dream like quietude in the valley is broken only by the
occasional tinkle of cowbells or neighing of horses.
Interestingly, Gulmarg does not have any
permanent residents.Those staying in Gulmarg are either tourists or those
catering to the tourism industry here.
One must plan a relaxed stay in Gulmarg to
witness all its charm. Summers allow for several outdoor activities trekking on
foot or on horses, mountain biking, trout fishing, golfing and water skiing.
Gulmarg is an excellent base for treks in the northern Pir Panjal Ranges. Many
treks are designed to suit all abilities and meander through the meadows and
along hill trails, providing stunning views of the valley.
One could trek to
Khilanmarg (6kms) or further up to the peak of Apharwat. On a clear day, the
Nanga Parbat peak can be seen from several viewpoints. One could also trek
south to the Ferozepur Nala and further to the hamlets of Danwas, Tejjian and
to Samaidan. There are no fixed rates for hiring horses; so remember to bargain
well.
Gulmarg boasts of the world’s highest golf course,
situated at an altitude of 2650m. Built in 1911 by British, this is the only
one of the 3 golf courses that remains today. The first golf championship in
India was played in Gulmarg in 1922. The sprawling 18 hole golf course is
maintained by the State Tourism Department and welcomes temporary members on
daily payment basis.
A limited amount of golfing equipment is
available for hire. The golf clubhouse,standing amidst the greens, has a
quaintly sloping roof reminiscent of a Swiss chalet. St Mary’s Anglican Church,
also in the middle of the golf course, stands to this day as a reminder of
Gulmarg’s British lineage.
A big tourist attraction is the newly inaugurated
“Gondola “cable car on the slopes of the majestic of the majestic Mt Apharwat
(4200m) .Built in collaboration with the acclaimed French cable car company,
Pomoglaski , it is the world’s highest and Asia’s longest ropeway.Open all year
round,the 2 stage ropeway , covers a total distance of 5kms , and ferries about
600 people an hour.
The first phase of the Gondola, inaugurated in 1998, takes
about 9 minutes to ascend the 400m to Kongdori station, while the second phase,
inaugurated in 2005, ascends to a dizzying 4267m!
Disembarking at the highest point, the
grandeur of the view from the cable car suddenly gives way to a carnivalesque
setting with nearly everyone being noisily excited at the sight of snow. There
are several activities from snow scooters to tobogganing (riding on hand pulled
sledges) and ski rides.
While snowfall occurs till April, snow stays on the
highest point till about July end. The view of the Himalayas is breathtaking. A
sign board can be seen indicating the end of Indian civilian area; only few
kilometers beyond is Pakistani territory.
While in summers the verdant beauty of
Gulmarg with its flowery meadows and pastoral scenes charms the visitor, the
thick snow cover from November to March makes Gulmarg a most sought after
winter destination. Blanketed in white the valley looks pristine. In the
chilling cold weather , hotels here extend warm hospitality, with hot cups of
kahwa and cracking wood fire burning in stone fireplaces.
There is enough and more for a visitor to
do in winters: sit back and enjoy the stunning views, play in the soft snow or
partake of the various winter sport activities offered. Gulmarg has been called
the “heartland of winter sports in India” by CNN. In January 1998, the first
National Winter Games of India were held here. Thereafter, Gulmarg has hosted
the event twice, in 2004 and 2008.
A generous snowfall in winters covers the
mountain with fine, deep powder snow turning Gulmarg into India’s finest ski resort. Mt Apharwat boasts
of one of the longest and highest ski slopes in Asia. “ A big , wide, whale
bakced mountain …..with a dozen or so ridges coming off the front face at right
angles, like the teeth of a comb”, the peak has varied ski runs to suit all
levels of experience , from beginners to professionals. One can choose to ski
down any of the ridges or drop into one of the bowls between them. There are 3
ski lifts to take skiers up the mountain from where, in the peak season, they
can glide all the way down to Tangmarg! The Gondola cable car takes one to a
downhill ski run of 5.2 kms , from a height of 4267.2 m.
A European travel writer points out “that
with such pristine conditions it attracts all types –the passionate,
professionals, unskilled and the sacred. “ Skiing on the slopes of Gulmarg is a
big attraction because compared to other major ski resorts, especially the
Alpine resorts, the crowds here are far fewer and the rates ridiculously low.
Ski race evens are also held in Gulmarg which see participation from across the
world.
The Skiing season extends from 15 December
to 15 April. Basic equipment is available on hire, while trained instructors
are available for various levels of training. The Indian Institute of Skiing
and Mountaineering in Gulmarg conducts professional courses in skiing, apart from
organizing various other kinds of adventure activities.
Heli-skiing has recently been launched in
Gulmarg by the J& K Government. It is the ultimate, free riding experience
where helicopters are used instead of ski lifts. The helicopter rides up the mountain,
apart from being an experience in itself, give skiers access to virgin turfs
that are otherwise out of bounds.
Given its stunning beauty, it is no
surprise that the vales of Gulmarg have been a favourite with Bollywood
directors. The famous song from the 1973 Rishi Kapoor Dimple Kapadia starrer
Boddy , “ Hum tum Ek Kamre Main Band Hon”, was shot in Gulmarg , in Highlands
Park Hotel. Another popular song associated with Gulmarg is “Jai Jai Shiv
Shankar” from Aap Ki KAsam starring Rajesh Khanna and Mumtaz. Locals are sure
to point out the small Shiva Temple on a hillock, in the middle of the valley,
where this song was shot. Originally the temple of the Dogra kings of Jammu and
Kashmir, it is known as the Maharani Temple or Mohineshwar Shivalaya. Interestingly,
this conical, single celled shrine can be seen from all parts of Gulmarg!
The annual, 3 day Gulmarg Winter Festival,
held in March, brings together music, film. Photography and adventure on one
common platform. Showcasing upcoming artists it holds events against the
breathtaking setting of snow peaks and is a great crowd puller.
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