SRINAGAR
Is this a city of lake or one of garden?
Des its beauty lie in the mountains that form its horizon or in the wild roses
that bloom underfoot at the slightest opportunity? Is it the sound of water
lapping against shikara that most lingers in the visitor’s memory, or the scent
of the fragrant kahwa, or the well-spoken smile of a craftsmen displaying
intricately woven carpets? If Srinagar is one thing then it is all these things:
achingly beautiful, utterly refined and entirely unforgettable.
The Irish Poet Thomas Moore describes the
Dal lake as among the most romantic places in the world, writing eloquently of
a suitor “who in moonlight and music thus sweetly may glide O’er the lake of cashmere,
with that one by his side!”
THE LAKES
The quintessential image of Srinagar is
that of the beautiful Dal Lake, with houseboats moored on its banks and
shikaras floating on its tranquil waters. The ethereal beauty of this scene has
enthralled visitors across time, from the Mughals and the British to the
traveller of today.
Set against the majestic backdrop of the
Zabarwan range, the Da; is truly “Srinagar’s jewel”. It is not surprising that
the picturesque setting of the lake, with languidly floating shikaras, has
featured in many romantic Bollywood songs. A popular sing is “ Ye chand sa
roshan chehra’ from Kashmir Ki Kali, which has Shammi Kapoor wooing the
beautiful Sharmila Tagore on a shikara. More recent is Preity Zinta singing “
Socho ki jheelon ka sheher ho/ Lehron pe apna ik ghar ho……” while dressed in
traditional Kashmiri attire in Mission Kashmir.
A glacial lake, the Dal’s shoreline
stretches 15.5 kms, lined with beautiful Mughal gardens, parks and hotels and
with houseboats anchored along its bank. Like the city, the lake too changes
character with the season: in late summers it is abloom with pink louses and
lilies, in the height of winters it dons a silver sheen, parts of it covered
with a thin sheet of ice both equally spectacular.
Awed by the beauty of the Dal, the Mughals
built picturesque gardens both along its banks and overlooking it – Shamaliar
Nishat , Chasme Shahi and PAri Mahal being the most splendid. Char Chinar,
where 4 chinar trees stand on an island in the middle of the lake , is a
popular landmark.
There are several other sites of interest along the lake
–Hazzrtbal shrine on its northwest banks; Nehru Park, the Shankaracharya Hill
and temple and the 2 golf courses near its south bank.
The Boulevard is the arterial road running
along the southern banks of the Dal Lake, lined with hotels and restaurants ,
shops , banks and internet cafes, Busy at most times of the day with walkers,
vehicular traffic and tourists , it is also a favourite with joggers and
cyclists - all taking in its many
sights.
Covering an area of 18 sqkm, the Dal is
part of a larger wetland and is made up of 4 basins divided by causeways of
which the smaller Nagin Lake, lying to its northwest, is best known. The Nagin,
though often seen as an independent lake, is linked to the mother lake through
a narrow channel .Riding in a shikira on the Nagin, one can see the fort on top
of Hari Parbat, playing solemn witness to life below.
Dal has nearly 1400 tourist houseboats
anchored on it , most along the periphery of the lake close to the Boulevard,
fewer on the Nagin and even less on the Jhelum.Hand crafted , the houseboats
are generally made from local cedar wood, with intricately carved interiors.
Offering anything from a single room to 4 (or even 6) room accommodation, the
boats are graded according to the level of comfort they provide. If you can
afford to splurge, deluxe houseboats offer the finest luxury in terms of its
interiors palatial rooms with crystal chandeliers, often with decks and a
terrace overlooking the lake hospitality and gastronomy. All houseboats,
regardless of category, have highly personalized service, with the owner and
his family never far away.
The houseboats are named romantically and
even whimsically: Princess, Flower of the Lake, for instance, or Monalisa , Phoenix
Star of Asia, Istanbul, Venice . In 1966, Pandit Ravi Shankar taught George on
one Harrison to play the sitar on one of these houseboats. At the Boulevard,
one is spoilt for choice for choice with countless boats standing cheek by
jowl. The boats in the Nargin are far fewer. While Dal has an electrifying
energy to it, for those wanting, calm and quietude, Nagin is a better bet.
The other attraction of the lake is
shikaras. Small “taxi” boats, about 4.6m long, shikaras have colourful ,
cushioned seats with backrests and a canopy on top, evoking a truly regal
style of comfort and romance. The lapping of its heart shaped oars creates
music as it smoothly glides on the water. Indeed, shikara ‘s gentle progress
and rhythmic progress over the waters of the Dal Lake induces a feeling of
sensuous ease which is vastly superior to ……..a ride in a Venetian Gondola.
These colourful shikaras are not only the
mode of transportation on the lake, indispensable to both locals and visitors,
but also provide the lake’s very own shopping experience. Shikara walas with
wares ranging from Kashmiri shawls and carpets, papier mache and artificial
jewels to flowers, fruits and bakery items row in and out, approaching tourists
in houseboats or on other shikaras.
The experience of shopping from shikaras
instead of in a regular of in a regular marketplace is priceless; however,
don’t forget to bargain! Shikaras also provide services such as that of a
masseur, or a photographer offering to dress you in traditional Kashmiri
attire.
Today’s shikaras, particularly the ones
cruising along the Boulevard, have also become a portal for advertising, their
canopies pasted with ads for all kinds of ventures: telecom networks, publications,
brands of clothing. Apart from houseboats and shikaras , the Dal has innovative
mobile facilities including mobile phone booths , post offices and canteens
selling tea, coffee Maggie noodles and pakodas.
Swimming, boating, snow skiing (during high winter) and canoeing are some of
the water sports offered on the lake.
There are numerous villages along the inner
banks of the Dal that depend upon the lake for their livehood. As a result, the
lake is a hub of fisheries, vegetable harvesting and fodder plants (on floating
gardens called rad)
A typical day for the villagers in the lake
begins at 4 am with the Floating Vegetable Market. Shikaras paddle towards the
watery, wholesale marketplace where locals come to buy and sell vegetables and
flowers grown on the lakeside or in floating vegetable gardens on the Dal
itself.
While the market is primarily for locals,
it’s a must see for tourists and a photographer’s delight, especially of the
day is blessed with a fine sunrise.
Start early, so as not to miss the peak
hour bustle. On nearing the market, the atmosphere suddenly changes. A
cacophony of shikara walas peddling their wares and customers bargaining breaks
the early morning silence.
There’s an occasional handicraft seller or
a confectioner with fresh, crunchy macaroons to tempt the tourist.
An outing to the floating market could take
up to 3 hours and the ride is a delight in itself. As you lounge on the
cushioned seats of the shikara, watching the sun rise over the horizon , the
only sounds are the tweeting of the birds , soft lapping of the oars and the
distant call of the muezzin gathering the faithful to prayer. If he is in the
mood, your shikara wala might surprise you by breaking into song and adding to
the magic.
HOUSEBOATS –PALACES ON WATER
The unique tradition of houseboats in
Srinagar started with its first British residents .As the Maharaja of Kashmir
would not allow them to own land; they came upon the idea of building their
residences on water. Gradually, these houseboats evolved from tiny floating
homes to luxurious palaces, equipped to cater to all daily needs as well as
means of entertainments. With time, even as guesthouses and hotels came about,
houseboats continued to be used and remain Srinagar’s unique attraction.
SHIKARAS
One must leave time for at least one long
shikara ride: whether it is along the Dal, taking in its many sites including
its “floating” villages; or along the Jhelum river, passing under its old
bridges; or in the deep quiet and lotus filled waters of the Nagin . Floating
gardens can be seen on the lake and variety of dabchiks and other water birds
duck in and out of the water. With parts of the lakes lined with shops and houses,
one can also witness the locals going about their daily lives.
A Shikara can be hired from the many
shikara ghats along the lake. The standard rate for shikaras is rupee 300/
hour, though you may be able to bargain for discounts in the off season.
SAVING THE DAL
Active measures are being taken to regenerate Dal Lake that has suffered due to excessive pollution and unplanned urbanization. In 2009, a project aimed at eco regeneration of the Dal Nagin Lakes was undertaken by the National Lake Conservation Plan (NLCP). The state government has set up the Lakes and Waterways Development has set up the Lakes and Waterways Development Authority (LAWDA) , which is working primarily for the Dal. Meanwhile awareness is being created to sensitize tourists ti help save the city’s star attraction.
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