ODE TO AUTUMN: THE CHINAR
The majestic, chinar ( Platanus orientalis)
, known for its longevity, spreading crown cool shade and royal touch, is the
state tree of Kashmir. Native to Persia and Greece , the chinar was first
planted in Kashmir near temples dedicated to goddess Bhawani , giving it the
local name Boiun or Booni.
Later,planted profusely by the Mughals, it
came to dominate the many gardens in Srinagar. As Iqbal writes, the “blaze of
chinars (Kashmir) nurses in its bosom. A large deciduous tree, the chinar can
grow up to 30 m, with a 10-15 m wide base. In autumn, its leaves turn a fiery
orange red giving the landscape an enchanting glow.
The chinar leaf is a popular symbol in
Kashmiri crafts – on embroidered shawls or papier mache products and in articles of daily use ,
wood carvings and shikara decorations.
PARI MAHAL
2 small but enchanting gardens on a hill of
the Zabarwan range, alongside the Dal Lake, are Pari Mahal and Chashme Shahi.
Of these, Pari Mahal is higher and was built as an observatory by Dara Shikoh.
The most mystically inclined of Shahjahan’s sons ,Dara Shikoh gave the garden
to one of his teachers , Peer Mullah Shah 0 and much of the prince’s spiritual
investigations occurred on these seven terraces.
Once can say, without exaggeration, that
the view from Pari Mahal is like a painting ,vast and yet filled with filled
beautiful detail the Char Chinar island, for example floating in the Dal, or sparkling water
hazards in the Royal Springs golf course below.
Chashme Shahi, the “garden of the royal
spring “, was built by one of the royal spring “, was built by one of Shahjahan
‘s nobles in 1642. Though not as extensive as either Shalimar or Nishat,
Chashme Shahi has its charms particularly the large pool at its centre, on
which rain the waters of a sprightly fountain. There is a small cafeteria in
the garden, where visitors may like to sip a cup of tea as the sun sets as the
run sets and coloured lights begin to illuminate the garden paths, creating a
cheerfully modern kind of a beauty.
Both Pari Mahal and Chashme Shahi , in fact
, are best visited in the evening , one for the pleasure of its sunset , the
other for these festive , electric colours.
Near the foot of the Chashme Shahi hill are
2 new additions to Srinagar’s horticultural riches. The first is the Jawaharlal
Nehru Memorial Botanical Garden, built over 80 hectares in 1969.Over the years,
the garden’s research station has planted over 1.5 lakhs plants here. For
visitors interested in a more active outing, there is also a small lake
with boating facilities.
The 19th century poet Thomas
Moore described Kashmir’s roses as “the brightest that earth ever gave”. Today,
the youngest of Srinagar’s gardens may well be posing these roses stiff
competition. The Indira Gandhi Memorial Tulip Garden, conceptualized as
recently as 2007 y then chief minister, Chulam Nami Azad, has become immensely
popular in the last 5 years. Over a million bulbs bloom to magnificent glory
every April.
Srinagar boasts of 2 of the finest golf
courses in India and attracts both amateurs and professional golfer from across
the country. The older Kashmir Golf Club was built in the 19th
century, whereas the splendid Royal Springs Golf Course was commissioned in
2001.
HARWAN GARDEN
It is situated on the hillside 3 kms from
Shalimar Bagh on the road to Dachigam, makes for a splendid outing. A canal,
Sarband , bordered with chinars , flows through the middle of the garden adding
to its charm.
Excavations in Harwan Village by the ASI
have revealed major Buddhist ruins dated to the 3rd century AD,
including a stupa, terracotta Buddha figurines and carved tiles, many of which
are now on display in the Ram Nagar Palace Museum, Udhampur. Originally known
as Shadarahadwan, Harwan hosted the third International Buddhist Conclave in
the 4th century A.
THE CITY JHELUM
JHELUM, the Vitasta of the rigveda, weaves
its way through the old part of the city dividing the north from the south.
Originally , 9 bridges ( “ kadal “ in Kashmiri ) spanned the river Zero Bridge
, AMira Kadal , Budshah Kadal, Zaina Kadal, Habba Kadal, Fateh Kadal , Aali
Kadal , Nawa Kadal, Fateh, Kadal and Safa Kadal- many of which have now been
rebuilt , while several smaller , new bridges
have been added. The view from any of the old city’s bridges is
unmistakably Kashmiri, with old brick buildings lining the banks and shrines
with pagoda roofs breaking the symmetry.
The old city of Srinagar has sights, smells
and sounds to enchant the most jaded traveller. The bustling bazaars are a
photographers delight, selling everything from clothes to bread to vegetables, with
shop after shop selling household items including the distinctly Kashmiri
copperware. The colours and patterns of the local handicrafts with weavers at
work, fabric hanging out to dry , shops selling shawls carpets – add to the
mood of the old city.
THE CITY LAL CHOWK
It is a city square, is both the main
commercial centre of downtown Srinagar as well as the political centre of the
town. It was ta Lal Chowk that Jawaharalal Nehri unfurled the national flag in
1948. The clock tower here, built in 1980, os a popular landmark . Along with
Lal Chowk ,Badshah Chowk is the other major shopping hub in the old city.
DACHIGAM NATIONAL PARK
Dachigam National Park was established for
the protection of the rare and endangered Kashimiri stag, or Hangul, found
exclusively in the valley. Situated 18kms from the city centre, the park is
barely 1km from Harwan Gardens. Apart from the Hangul, the park also has the
Tibetan wildass , wolf, musk deer and
snow leopard. Birds here include the black necked crane , pheasant goose and
pea fowl.
Permission to visit the Park must be sought
from the Wildlife Department in Srinagar.
For those looking for a more fashionable
address, Polo View and the recently renovated Bund are a must visit. The Bund
(meaning walkaway) , situated on the right bank of the Jhelum, in Civil Lines
area , was once a popular esplanade of the British. To this day it has the most
upscale stores in town, including the famous photographers, Mahattas , the Shaw
Brothers , Mahattas , the Shaw Brothers known for their Kashmiri weaving and
the handicraft emporium, Suffering Moses. Its English architecture with wooden
structure and wide spaces are all reminiscent of its British lineage.
The old city also boasts of Kashmir’s many
ancient shrines and mosques among which the shrine of Shah I- Hamdan , situated
between Habba Kadal and Fateh Kadal, is the oldest. Situated at Nowhatta, in
the middle of the old city, is the striking 15th century Jama Masjid, quite unlike other congregation
mosque in the country. The pagoda roofed mosque has a magnificent courtyard and
370 wooden pillars. The serene quietude in the mosque contrasts sharply with
the din from the bazaars surrounding it. Destroyed thrice by fire and rebuilt
each time, the mosque, as it stands today, was last repaired during the reign
of the Maharaja Pratap Singh.
The other major shrines in the old city
include Patthar Masjid built by Noor Jehan in 1620 , ( Madani Masjid, Makhdoom
Sahib and Pir Dastagir ) reently destroyed in an electric short circuit) .
Tourists are welcome to visit the mosques and shrines in the old city.
PANDRETHAN TEMPLE
Pandrethan , 6kms from Srinagar, was once
the capital of Kashmir , founded by Emperor Ashoka. The city, destroyed in a
fore, is only survived by a Shiva Temple that once stood in the middle of a
water tank. The 10th century Pandethan temple is known for its
unique symmetrical design and the geometry involved in its construction. H.H
Cole who visited Kashmir in 1869 described the temple as “ one of the most
perfect pieces of ancient carving that exists in Kashmir’ ( Illustrations of
Ancient Buildings in Kashmir)
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