MALAYSIA SABAH MOUNT KINABALU -TRAILS TO THE TOP

TRAILS TO THE TOP

Climbing MT KINABALU can be done in 2 days but a more comfortable climb in 3 days is recommended to acclimatize to the altitude and fully enjoy the rich biological diversity – the exotic rare plants, orchids, birds and many more. While it does not require special skills to do the climb, you must at least have the basic fitness level. Park regulations require climbers have to engage the services of a registered mountain guide. The number of guides depends on the number of climbers. Porter services are available and recommended. Book and pay for your mountain guide and porter at the Kinabalu Park.

Two (2) Trails lead to the top, the Summit Trail and Mesilau Route. The 2 trails meet at Layang Layang at 2740 m (or Km 4) from Timpohon Gate)

THE SUMMIT TRAIL is the well-trodden main route taken by most climbers, since the beginning. Starting from the Park Headquarters m it used to be that climbers walk 4_km up to the Timpohon Gate at 1866.4 m where the Summit Trail starts. Today most climbers opt to take the shuttle transport. Interestingly, the climb actually begins with the descent to Carson’s fall, named after the first Park Warden of Kinabalu Park. From here onward, depending on your fitness level, it is about 4 to 5 hour climb for the day.

The trail winds up a steep staircase of gnarled tree roots to a mossy world of drifting clouds and orchid draped trees, where pitcher plants and rhododendrons abound. There are several Pondok ( or Shelters). The first is Pondok Kandis at 1981.7 m where on a clear day, a view of the road that links Kota Kinabalu to the park can be seen.

The second shelter is Pondok Ubah at 2081.34m, the area where one of Borneo’s most unusual pitcher plants grows – the Nepenthes lowii, so do look out for these oddly –shaped plants with pitcher containers. The mossy forest continues on past the Sabah Telecoms Station at Komborongoh is (2252.2m). Interestingly, ““Komborongoh “is a plant that the Kadazandusun is a plant that the Kadazandusuns use to ward off evil spirits and used in traditional ceremonies and rituals.

Third shelter is Pondok Lowii. The trail continues up to the mossy forest of mixed bamboos and tree ferns. More rhododendrons are seen. At 2515 m (8251) is the fourth shelter; Pondok Mempening is reached with wild begonias growing nearby. Stops at these shelters give one time to observe the squirrels, tree shrews and birds that seem so unafraid of the climbers. You will also see the Layang –Layang TV station. Soon you will emerge to an open exposed ridge at Layang –Layang (previously known as Carson’s Camp) , at 2702 m (8865 ft) this is where the Summit Trail meets with the Mesilau Trail.

At this point a band of ultramafic soil, distinguished by its orange –cinnamon color, crosses the trail and the vegetation’s change dramatically. The forest becomes shorter and much more open and is dominated by the second species Leptospermum that grows on Kinabalu, L.recurvum, with its tiny grey leaves and Dacrydium gibbsiae, a very beautiful conifer, both found only with the Kinabalu Park. This is also the zone of the insect eating pitcher plants for which Kinabalu is famous. Of the 30 species of pitcher plants recorded from Borneo, around 10 grow on the mountain and at least 3 species are found nowhere else in the world. These include the spectacular Nepenthes rajah, the largest pitcher plant in the world and the beautiful N.Villosa. These plants are delicate and easily damaged by trampling feet. Please look carefully where you tread.

PONDOK VILLOSA, the fifth shelter, at 2690m (8825 ft) is situated at the top of an open rocky patch and soon the forest becomes even more stunted. Here are found the scurfy orange young leaves of the endemic Haviland’s oak add a touch of colour. Superb view can be seen of Mt Kinabalu towering above as you follow the trail upwards.More rhododendrons are seen, some species that are Kinabalu endemics. Schima brevifolia( a relative of the tea plant)with its young purple leaves and beautiful large camellia –like flowers is common from here.

At the top of this open area at 3050 m (10000 ft.) , a small track leads off to a helipad on the right and it is worth making this 5 minute side trip for the dramatic view of the towering peaks from the helipad on a clear day.

After the helipad junction, the ultramafic soil ends and the forest are again the taller trees covered with mosses and orchids cover the ground in between granie boulders. At this elevation, about 60% of the ground cover is orchids. Within a few minutes, you arrive at the sixth shelter, Pondok Paka at 3080 m (10105 ft) named after Paka Cave nearby , made famous because it is here that the very first summit expedition led by Sir Hugh Low sheltered, rested overnight before climbing to the summit on the morning of 11^th March 1851. The Paka Cave, on the edge of a small stream is nothing more than a large overhanging rock.

The thinning air makes it harder to breathe. Finally, the various accommodations for overnight stop is reached, at Waras Hut, Laban Rata, Panar Laban or Gunting  Lagadan Hut. The most comfortable is Laban Rata which equipped with running water, electricity, a restaurant, indoor shower and toilets.

Panar Laban “ the place of sacrifice “ was where Sir Hugh Low and his local guides performed a ritual sacrifice to appease the ancestral souls for their “ disturbance “ to the spirit world and to seek safe passage. This same sacrifice is still performed each year and when there is a major expedition or event on the mountain.

The Mesilau Route to the Summit starts from Mesilau Resort and lead to Layang Layang (Carson’s Camp). It was opened in October 1998 initially used mainly by scientists and researchers as it takes longer (about 5 – 6 hours to reach Layang –Layang , as compared to 2-3 hours , from the Timpohan Gate . Visitors who wish to take this Route must register and pay a small fee at Mesilau Gate.

The trail is a good one for people who are more interested in plants and wildlife than in the actual climb to the summit of the Mt Kinabalu . Conifers, climbing bamboos, superb Agathis trees grow in the area.Near the ridge crest at about 2000m (6500 ft) the forest becomes stunted, with rocks, tangled tree roots, covered in spongy mosses and liverworts. There are many delicate orchids and beautiful orange coloured Rhododenrons.

Some little streams are crossed before reaching the Kipuyut Bridge across the swift-flowing West Mesilau River that cascades from the precipitous slopes. Near the 3km mark, a tributary of the river is again crossed. From here, the trail follows the ridge, rising steeply and continuously, up and up and up in an almost never ending series of steps for about 2_km. From here another 500 meters of trail contouring around the massif bring you out to the Summit Trail, a little way above Layang-Layang . The whole Mesilau Route to Layang-Layang is 5.7 km (3 ½ miles).