ISTIKLAL CADDESI
Istilal Caddesi is one of the
liveliest streets of Istanbul. Every day thousands walk through it. The only
vehicular movement breaking the flood of human activity is the nostalgic thread
of tramlines. Both sides of the street are line with art galleries, famous
shops selling accessories and jewellery, cafes where lively talk goes on and
passages where drinking dens are situated.
Most of the buildings identified
with the avenue as well as the passages were built at the turn of the 20th
century under the influence of the art nouveau movement, which was at the
height of fashion then. Beyoglu together with Galata is closely associated with
Europe and any new trend or fashion was quickly adopted there. The pilaster
sculpture and some self-standing statues decorating the facades of the period
buildings are worth close examination. At the mid-section of Istiklal Street
the crowd thickens. The place where seafarers from diverse lands met during the
Byzantine and Ottoman periods is today one of the most popular areas.
An interesting route from the
terminus of Tunel (funicular) first leads you to GALATA MEVLEVIHANESI (HOUSE OF
MEVLEVI OF DIVAN LITERATURE) situated at Galip Dede Street. The Mevlevhane was
built in 1491 by Mehmet Dede, the grandson of Mevlana Celaleddin –I Rumi who
had a particular place in history on account of his teaching and philosophy.
Despite being devastated in firestorm and other disaster the building, with
repairs and renovation, has survived to our own day.
On the first and last
Saturday of every month, the Sema ritual (of whirling dervishes) is performed
at the Semaane (ritual hall) section which is also used as a museum. In the Mevlevihane
are also the cells of the dervishes who devoted themselves to the Mevlevi Order
as well as library. The tombs of masters and dervishes are in the courtyard.
For those who wish to learn about Mevlevi Order, a visit to the museum is a
must, with its exhibits off artefacts relating to Mevlevi culture, classical
Turkish Musical instruments and illuminated manuscripts. The tomb of Galip Dede
is in front of the Mevlevhane.
As in Ottoman times the
Consulates are lined up along the Beyoglu. They were all built during the late
Ottoman Period. When the capital moved from Istanbul to Ankara the embassies
too moved; however the buildings of embassies still stand and they are used for
different purposes today. Some of the Consulates have churches or chapels in their
courtyard for their religious rituals.
One spot famous for its cafes
and bars of the Istiklal Street is Asnalimescit Road. One of the oldest hotels
of Istanbul, the Pera Palasm is next to the never sleeping entertainment hub.
Next to the hotel is the Museum of Pera which houses paintings of famous
Ottoman artists.
One of the most famous meeting
points in Istiklal Street is the Cicek Pasaji (Flower Passage), opposite the
Galatasaray Lycee. The tables are always full, with customers of all ages
busily chatting. To reach Cezayir Street, you walk down the slope following the
walls of Galatasaray Lycee and turn left.
The passage buildings
illustrate the special atmosphere of the Istiklal Street. Most of them were
built in the late 19th century or early 20th century and
each one has its own surprises. One of the most interesting buildings is Halep
Pasaji where a pilaster sculpture of a clown adorns the façade. The clown is
actually clue as to the original use of the building: it was formerly a circus.
The famous Beyoglu Cinema can also be found in that building.
In Istanbul the overwhelming
Christian community is Orthodox. One of the grandest churches in Istanbul. Aya
Triada (Holy Trinity) near Taksim Square is an Orthodox Church
Taksim Meydani ( Taksim Square)
is at the end of Istiklal Street . The square was the water distribution centre
of Istanbul in the past and so it took the name Taksim which means distribution
in Turkish. It is one of the busiest places in Istanbul and never sleeps.
If you walk from one end of
Istiklal Street to the other you will not have savoured it fully. So go back,
walk slowly, visit the passages, sit in its cafes, bars and drinking dens and
enjoy Turkish meze (starters) with your drink. After sunset walk the street
once more. The crowd will be more dense and the taste of the street different
as the oriental music pouring out of the bars will take you to other worlds.
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