Tuesday 2 July 2019

INDIA MADURAI HERITAGE WALK - MEENAKSHI -SUDARESVARA TEMPLE ( PART 2)

 MEENAKSHI -SUDARESVARA TEMPLE( MADURAI EAST TOWER)
This ancient Siva temple has 1500 year old tradition and history. A song from Purananuru of the Sangam age refers to the existence of a Siva temple here. Another Sangam work Paripadal compares the city layout as the lotus bud at the centre and the petals around it. It also mentions that the temple was the nucleus of the city and streets were laid around it. This temple was sung by the Thevaram trio during the seventh and eighth century A. D and established and expanded during the early Pandyahozha , later Pandya , Vijayanagar and Nayak rulers. Most of its old structures were removed by the Gopuras of this temple, the eastern one was erected by Sudara Pandya. The western Gopura is the work of the 14th century A.D by Parakrama Pandya. Other Gopuras are probably the works of the Nayak rulers. The Thousand Pillarsed Hall of this temple constructed by the Nayaks is a museum by itself with exuberant sculptural carvings. There are about 60 and more inscriptions belonging to the later Pandya and Nayak period. Madurai is considered as the city of festivals in view of the grand celebration of China festival. Car festival and the procession of the images of the Gods and Goddess on the street of the city.

INTRODUCTION 
The Meenakshi Temple is a veritable treasure of art, culture and architecture . A lifetime would not be sufficient to enjoy, explore and discover it.

Long ago Madurai was a forest of Kadamba trees. a sacred Suyambulingam was discovered by the King of Gods, Lord Indira. It was enshrined at the spot it was found, that is the temple you see here in Madurai now. As a proof of it you see 8 huge elephants around the shrine of Lord Shiva. The splendid Meenakshi Temple was constructed in various stages around this Suyambulingam. T
he presiding deity is Lord shiva and his consort is Goddess Meenakshi.

Thirugnanasambandar the Hindu Saint has mentioned the temple in his songs which go back to early 7th century. The Lord has been described as Alavailraivan in his songs.

The temple was almost destroyed in year 1310 following the invasion of the Islamic conqueror Malikkafur . The invaders destroyed most of the ancient sculptures of the temple.

The Temple was restored to its pristine glory in the late 14th century when the Pandya Kings came back to power in Madurai. This can also be termed as a new beginning of a new era in the history of the temple, when it was almost rebuilt.

The Pandya Kings & Nayal rulers especially King Thirumalai Naicker played an important role in the construction and expansion of the temple. The Madurai Meenakshi Amman temple is now under the administration of the HR and CE department of Tamil Nadu.

1. SCULPTURES LOCATED AT VEDAN MANDAPAM , NEAR EASTERN ENTRANCE
Scholars traced the worship of Lord Shiva to the Indus Valley Civilization period, which prevailed 4500 years back in Mohenjo-Daro & Harappa. The oldest surviving text of Hinduism the " Vedhas " look up to Lord Shiva as a hunter. The supreme god is a destructor of sins and ignorance.

2. LOCATED ON SOUTH TOWER
Atlas, the bearer of the earth , is a concept taken from Greeks. His counterparts are found on all sides of the temple towers meant to hold the tower, called as Gopuram Tangis.

The rain - bearing cloud is symbolized as a dragon. It is placed at the top of the tower, as a threat to the demon of drought.

3. LOCATED ON SOUTH TOWER
The tallest & curvilinear Gopuram ( tower) , unique to Madurai , carries the statue of Lord Murugan seated on a white elephant flanked by Goddess Valli and Goddess Deivanai.

Lord Indhran is the father of Goddess Deivanai and the white elephant is his gift to the son in law.

4. LOCATED ON SOUTH TOWER
Interesting sculpture of Lord Ganesa depicted as an infant cradled by his parents. The multi headed snake is a symbol of the " Milky way" also called as " Akash Ganga". It is the source of all prosperity.

5. LOCATED ON AMMAN GOPURAM ( OPPOSITE TO WEST TOWER)  
Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvathi atop Mount kailash which Ravana tried to vain to life. To appease Lord Shiva, he plays on the Veena. Ravana is depicted with only 9 heads. The tenth head is in an inverted position , serve as support of his veena.

6. LOCATED ON AMMAN GOPURAM ( OPPOSITE TO WEST TOWER)  
An interesting scene of lord Murugan enlightening his father on the significance of om. hence the name " thagappan swamy" -- Father 's Preceptor ." Om" signifies the origin of the universe .

7. LOCATED ON SWAMY GOPURAM ( OPPOSITE TO WEST TOWER)
Lord Shiva emerges from Linga and saves Markandeya the 16 year old lad from the clutches of Yama ( lord of death) . A masterpiece sculpture of Markandeya

8. THE WEST TOWER 
The west tower shows a Pan Indian Mythology called " churning the ocean of milk" with a view to create the universe . The sculptures has Devas on one side and Asuras on the other. Look closely on how the two groups have been differentiated. 

9. LOCATED ON SWAMY GOPURAM ( OPPOSITE TO WEST TOWER)  
Masters of Tamil literature the Nalvars ( 4 prominent saiva poets) who laid the foundation for Tamil Saivism: Thirugnana Sampanthar, Appar, sundarar and Manikavasagar

10. LOCATED ON SWAMY GOPURAM ( OPPOSITE TO WEST TOWER)  
A unique way to show the geat epic hero Arjuna in meditation. he is in penance to get the most powerful weapon Pasupatham from Lord Shiva. This weapon helped him win the battele against the Kauravas, The boar in the sculpture identifies Arjuna and distinguishes him from other " rishis"


11. LOCATED ON SWAMY GOPURAM ( OPPOSITE TO WEST TOWER)  
Here you see a pre marital encounter between Lord Shiva seated on a bull and Goddess Meenakshi on horse back depicted in style. Today it is enacted during Chithiral festival as Dikvijayam .

12. THE NORTH TOWER
The North tower with least number of sculptures remained unfinished for a long time. so it was referred as " Mottai Gopuram " - Bald Tower . The title remains even long after its completion. 

13. LOCATED NEAR NORTH TOWER 
Find the remains of the earliest form of worship in the temple complex Arasu tree ( ficus religiosa) represents Lord Shiva and neem tree represents Goddess Parvathi. The snake statues below represent fertility. 

14. LOCATED NEAR NORTH TOWER 
The beautifully carved composite pillars, popularly called the Musical pillars is one of the attractions of the sprawling Meenakshi Temple, which spreads over an area of 14 acres.  

15. LOCATED NEAR THIRUKALYANA MANDAPAM
Chariot poem - a 15th century style of depicting poems in art form , called chitira kavi ( fusion of art and literature)

16. LOCATED NEAR THIRUKALYANA MANDAPAM
Both Lord Shiva &  Lord Vishnu are great friends and equally powerful , one controlling the other. When Vishnu became the ferociuos Narashaima the whole universe was terrified , he was subduded by Shiva in the form of Sharabamoorthy ( avatar of Shiva with wings of a bird and head of a lion)

17. LOCATED   ON THE TOWER NEAR THIRUKALYANA MANDAPAM
Sculpture shows Lord Shiva wearing a coat and hence called as " Chattainathar" .The coat is made of Javadu ( an aromatic extract from the civet cat)

18. ENTRY RESTRICTED
Inside the thirukalyana mandapam the famous Meenakshi Kunkumam ( Vermilion ) is being made) . The 5 main ingredients are 2 varients of Turmeric , borax , alum and sesame oil .

19.LOCATED INSIDE THIRUKALYANA MANDAPAM
 An imginary atlas of the universe among the Indians is depicted on the walls. One is kakolam or Atlas of the sky the other is Bhukolam or Atlas of the earth. The painting belongs to the 19th century.

20. LOCATED NEAR 1000 PILLARS HALL
It was a way to bring rain - Nandhi ( sacred bull) in a tub. During drought the tub is filled with water and mantras or prayers offered to Nandhi instead of Lord Varuna Bagavan ( the rain god) it was here  this lesser known tradition was followed.

21. Manmadan the Indian God of love and his wife Rathi depicted on opposite pillars in the 1000 pillar hall. Manmadan carries a sugarcane as his bow to stress the sweetness of life and a flower to show the tenderness of life ( the bow and the flower are vandalized)

22. LOCATED IN FRONT OF SWAMY SANNATHI
The kambathadi Mandapam shows  25 major aspects of Lord Shiva congregated around the flagpost.
The flagpost denotes the center of the universe. It also serves as the royal insignia of the presiding Deity , Lord Shiva - the Kings of Kings.

23. LOCATED IN THE 1000 PILLARS HALL
To identify Lord Krishna or any other form of Lord Vishnu , among the many brass statues, look for the triangle denotes Lakshmi the goddess of prosperity and wealth.

24. LOCATED IN THE 1000 PILLARS HALL
Mythology specific to Madurai : a painting where Lord Shiva shows the boundaries of Madurai to the then Pandiyan King using a snake. - Ellai Katiya Padalam

25. On the eastern side of the temple tank there is a marking on the floor, from where the 2 gold plated Vhimana ( super structure above shrine) can be viewed. 15 KGs of gold was used to cover the Goddess Meenakshi's Vhimana.

26. Locate Lord Maha SadhaShiva with 25 heads and 50 hands on Chitira Gopuram , as he overlooks the golden lotus tank.
The stucco figures on towers are made of a mixture of limes stone, Jaggery , sea shell and Indian Gall nut which give them the strength.

27. Enjoy the 400 year old Rani Mangammal period painting on the ceiling opposite to Oonjal Mandapam. Rani Manggammal is shown on the right hand corner witnessing the celestial wedding. The painting has been partly restored by Intach Madurai.

28. Kolam like Compass carved on the floor. It shows the straight lines connecting goddess Meenakshi's feet and the eastern entrance, as well as the central point of the magnificent monolithic Mukurini Vinayagar Statue and the center of the south tower.

29. Mahatma Gandhi's statue standing outside the temple, show his refusal to enter this temple which once denied entry to the so called "untouchables". The statue commemorates his victory of getting the temple accessible to all. Madurai was the place which enlightened the great Mahatma. 

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