Sunday, 1 March 2020

INDONESIA YOGYAKARTA -PRAMBANAN (PART 8)


CANDI SUKUH 

Approached in ancient times from the plains by a long flight of steps. To Sukuh, 910m above sea level, it’s above a 7km very steep walk, or take andong,oplet or horse,Rp 50 entrance.The shape of Candi Sukuh with its flight of steps leading to the upper part of the temple looks like the Maya temples of Guatemala. Walk up three grassy pyramids until you come to the main structure, a large flat unadorned powerfully carved stepped pyramid of roughhewn stone. Sukuh’s narrow stairway leads into a dark inner chamber. 

There are many phallic symbols; Sukuh is said to be the only explicitly erotic temple in all of Java. On a stone floor at the top of the steep stone tunnel a large realistic penis faces a lovingly sculpted, swollen in excitement vagina carved in relief. The first representation of a kris in Indonesian art is shown in one panel; Bima forging one with his bare hands while using his knee as an anvil. These strongly carved figures are so intriguing because they are done in the “ wayang –puppet style”.

There is a statue of Bima, plus carvings of crabs,lizards , tortoises , bats , panakawan clowns, nasty underworld creatures, decorated tortoise statues and guardians holding their clubs in one hand and their penis in the other. Pylons and obelisks nearby are decorated with the story of Garuda. Sleep in the hut near the temple grounds.There’s also a kampong nearby with excellent goats’ milk. On Sukuh’s mountain the last king of Majapahit, Brawijaya , is said to be buried ; offering are placed on this site by the Sultan of Yogya each year.

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